BASELWORLD 2015 – masterpieces frozen in Time and Space

i_3162_1BREGUET

Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097

Breguet’s latest creation, the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 pays tribute to the “souscription” and “tact” watches made by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century. Like them, its mechanism reveals the bridges, wheels, escapement, barrel and various other parts that are normally placed beneath the plate. The small offset dial at 12 o’clock – another characteristic of the great master’s legendary “à tact” watches – on the new Tradition 7097 model is overlapped by a retrograde seconds segment promoting optimal readability. The iconic “pare-chute” system of the Tradition collection positioned at 4 o’clock adds a perfectly symmetrical touch. This Breguet invention serving to protect the balance-staff from shocks was the forerunner of the “Incabloc” and other anti-shock systems. Exalting the brilliant, visionary spirit of Abraham-Louis Breguet, this exceptional creation not only honours the past but also looks firmly to the future with particularly innovative technical characteristics. Witness the inverted straight-line lever escapement with silicon horns and the silicon Breguet overcoil balance-spring – both serving to guarantee exceptional rating precision.
Movement
Mechanical automatic 505SR1 calibre, 38 jewels, inverted straight-line lever escapement with silicon horns, silicon Breguet overcoil balance-spring, 3 Hz, 50-hour power reserve
Functions
Hours, minutes, retrograde seconds
Case
18K white or pink gold, 40 mm Fluted caseband Sapphire back Water-resistant to 30 metres (3 bar / 100 ft)
Dial
Hand-guilloché silvered 18K gold offset dial at 12 o’clock Breguet “open-tipped” blued steel hand Retrograde small seconds at 10 o’clock
Bracelet/strap
Leather

i_3170_1ULYSSE NARDIN

Répétition Minutes Hannibal Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts

Ulysse Nardin brings history to life with a retelling of Hannibal’s epic march over the Pyrenees and the Alps by elephant, in the third century B.C. In its latest creation, the Manufacture portrays Hannibal on horseback, in the thick of the action, surrounded by his loyal warriors riding elephants. All these characters have been transformed into jacks and are sculpted in white gold, as are the landscape and mountains in the background. The entire scene is set on a dial in genuine Alpine granite. Such a rendition is a true test of the finest craftsmen’s skills, and places the wearer of the watch at the heart of the exploit accomplished not only by Hannibal but also by Ulysse Nardin, one of the very few watchmakers anywhere in the world with the ability to incorporate jacks into the dial of its minute-repeater wristwatches. These animated figures move in time to the four chimes that sound the minutes, quarters, hours and any other combination set by the wearer. The spinning tourbillon at 6 o’clock adds a final flourish to this exceptional timepiece, which is produced as a 30-piece limited series.
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound, Westminster Chimes Tourbillon UN-78 calibre, tourbillon making one revolution/minute, minute repeater with jacks sounding the hours, quarters and minutes on 4 notes (mi-do-re-sol), 36 jewels, power reserve of approximately 70 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, minute repeater, tourbillon
Case
Platinum, 44 mm Sapphire crystal front and back Water-resistant to 30 metres (3 bar / 100 ft)
Dial
Dial Genuine granite
Bracelet/strap
Leather with folding clasp

i_3168_1HUBLOT

Big Bang Tourbillon 5-Day Power Reserve Indicator

More horology, more expertise, more innovation, more fusion: Hublot rises to the challenge and presents the first tourbillon in the new-generation Big Bang line, featuring a skeleton movement – a feast for the eyes – and the added practicality of a power-reserve indicator on the dial side. Designed, developed and produced entirely by Hublot, this mechanical calibre further confirms the brand as one of the very few watchmakers with the capacity to develop and produce its own movements. Remodelled with new bridge and mainplate architecture, this traditional tourbillon is joined by an additional complication, namely a power-reserve indicator. This watch is an exercise in style and a demonstration of Hublot’s fusion of tradition and modernity, striking the perfect balance between the classicism of the skeleton tourbillon and the dynamic design of the new Big Bang case.
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound, HUB6016 skeleton tourbillon calibre, developed and manufactured by Hublot, 21,600 vib/h, 25 jewels, power reserve of approximately 115 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, power-reserve indicator
Case
Titanium or 18K King Gold, 45 mm Sapphire crystal front and back Water-resistant to 30 metres (3 bar / 100 ft)
Dial
Power-reserve indicator at 9 o’clock Tourbillon at 6 o’clock 5N gold-plated hour-markers and hands, black SuperLuminova™
Bracelet/strap
Black alligator stitched to black rubber with interchangeable system Triple folding clasp

i_3160_1ARMIN STROM

Skeleton Pure Earth

An authentic ode to the mechanical architecture of watch movements, the Skeleton Pure Earth by Armin Strom highlights the particular layout of its parts arranged in layers. The entirely skeletonised Calibre ARM09-S reveals subtle depth effects and contrasts that are accentuated by the black PVD-treated plate. This highly sophisticated mechanical movement not only displays a resolutely contemporary design, but also delivers first-rate performances, including an eight-day power reserve driven by a twin barrel. A perfect alliance between the traditional Swiss art of skeletonisation and futuristic horology, the Skeleton Pure Earth radiates a unique style featuring an harmonious blend of strength and elegance. 100-piece limited edition.
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound Armin Strom ARM09-S calibre, entirely skeletonised, black PVD-coated plate, 18,000 vib/h, 34 jewels, twin barrel, 8-day power reserve
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, power-reserve indicator
Case
Stainless steel with black PVD treatment, 43.4 mm Anti-reflective sapphire crystal, front and back Water-resistant to 50 metres (5 bar / 165 ft)
Dial
Annular sapphire dial with appliques Off-centred display Small seconds and power-reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Bracelet/strap
Black hornback alligator leather with black PVD-treated steel buckle Delivered with an additional black rubber strap

i_3165_1GUCCI

Gucci Dive

Launched in 2013, the Gucci Dive collection extends to eight new quartz versions in a multitude of colours and effects. Water-resistant to 200 metres, they come in three sizes with a diameter of 32, 40 or 45 mm. In styles that are classic, on-trend or sporting, with or without the distinctive green-red-green striped Gucci strap, the Gucci Dive collection highlights Gucci Watches’ natural ability to give different personalities to a single concept, injecting a dose of Italian design into the world of sport. The collection speaks volumes about the wearer’s lifestyle, while its sporting allure is accentuated by a rotating bezel, a characteristic feature of a dive watch.
Movement
Quartz ETA
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case
Polished and brushed stainless steel, with or without black PVD treatment 32, 40 or 45 mm diameter Unidirectional rotating bezel Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside Screw-down back, engraved with the Gucci coat of arms Water-resistant to 200 metres (20 bar / 660 ft)
Dial
White lacquer, sunray pink, black lacquer, mat white, mat black or mat blue Luminescent hands and hour-markers Date window at 6 o’clock
Bracelet/strap
Steel or black rubber with triple folding clasp

i_3161_1BALL WATCH

Engineer II Magneto S NM3022C-N1CJ-BK

Ball Watch takes on one of mechanical watchmaking’s arch enemies – magnetic fields – and sparks a technology revolution in the process. Whereas “anti-magnetic” movements are expected to resist a magnetic field of at least 4,800 A/m, the new A-PROOF® system guarantees protection up to 80,000 A/m. Its secret is a shield that closes over the movement. It is made from mumetal, an innovative alloy in watchmaking whose high magnetic permeability attracts or redirects lines from static or low-frequency magnetic fields. And this isn’t the only innovation. Unlike conventional anti-magnetic systems which enclose the movement in a cage, Ball Watch protects its mechanism with an ultra-fine diaphragm in mumetal, just 6/100th mm thick, that is operated by the rotating bezel. Leave it open to admire the movement of the Engineer II Magneto S through the sapphire back, or close it to “lock” the mumetal shield and protect against magnetic fields.
Movement
Automatic COSC-certified BALL RR1103-CSL chronometer calibre, A-PROOF® patented anti-magnetic system up to 80,000 A/m, SpringLOCK® patented anti-shock system, shock-resistance up to 5,000 G
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case
Steel, 42 mm Rotating bezel operating the A-PROOF® diaphragm mechanism Sapphire crystal front and back Water-resistant to 100 metres (10 bar / 330 ft)
Dial
Luminescent hands covered in gas micro-tubes
Bracelet/strap
Cordura fibre with buckle

i_3167_1MIDO

Commander Caliber 80 Chronometer

Epitomising Mido’s watchmaking expertise since 1959, the Commander collection now welcomes the Caliber 80 Chronometer, a new high-precision model equipped with a state-of-the-art chronometer movement. Developed according to the high standards laid down by Mido, this automatic movement now offers double the previous autonomy, with a generous 80-hour power reserve. It is also certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, the highest watch industry benchmark in terms of precision and reliability. The new Commander Caliber 80 chronometer expresses perfect harmony between modernity and tradition: the best of horological innovation, combined with a timeless design that has been as appealing as ever for more than half a century, since the Commander has been continuously produced by Mido since 1959. A rare degree of success that makes it an authentic icon.
Movement
Mechanical automatic Mido 80 calibre on ETA C07.621 base, chronometer-certified by the COSC, 25 jewels, 21,600 vib/h, blued screws, oscillating weight adorned with Côtes de Genève motif and engraved with the Mido logo, up to 80-hour power reserve
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date
Case
Satin-finish 316L stainless steel, polished bezel, 40 mm Facetted and domed sapphire crystal Transparent back Water resistant to 5 bar (50 m / 165 ft)
Dial
Rhodium, sunburst satin-finish Hours and hour-markers enhanced with white Super-LumiNova® Day and date at 3 o’clock
Bracelet/strap
Crocodile-pattern calfskin with steel folding clasp

i_3163_1CLAUDE MEYLAN

LAC « Tortue de Joux »

Claude Meylan looks to the grand tradition of form watches to once again sculpt time. The fully skeletonised mechanical movement appears to float between two sapphire crystals. At the heart of the mechanism, the hour and minute wheels guide the hands in their infinite dance. Decorations inspired by the characteristic shutters on the homes of the watchmaking-farmers of yore can be admired here and there, each hinting at the expert hand of the craftsman who brings these delicate finishes to life. The meticulously sculpted bridges create a harmony of forms and play on subtle contrasts in colour with the plate, further accentuated by the transparency of the whole.
Movement
Mechanical hand-wound, fully skeletonised 165 CM14 calibre, bridges and plate in two coordinating colours, hand-finishing, 42-hour power reserve
Functions
Hours, minutes
Case
316L steel, tonneau form, 40 mm wide Sapphire crystal front and back Water-resistant to 30 metres (3 bar / 100 ft)
Dial
Rhodium-plated skeleton hands
Bracelet/strap
Black alligator with square scales, 316L steel CM buckle

i_3164_1ERNEST BOREL

Duke Collection

With its new Duke collection, Ernest Borel presents an exquisite match between two opposites. On the one hand, a simple, elegant and remarkably pared-down design. On the other, the sophistication of a mechanical movement comprising several masterfully orchestrated horological complications: day, date, month and moon phases. A veritable compendium of the watchmaking expertise cultivated by Ernest Borel, this combination of simplicity and complexity paid tribute to the history of the Jura-based company, embodying a perfect balance between tradition and modernity.
Movement
Mechanical automatic Dubois Dépraz 9000 calibre, rhodiumed, circular-grained, Côtes de Genève motif, blued screws, 21 jewels, 28,800 vib/h
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month, moon phases
Case
Steel or 10 micron pink gold-plated, 41 mm Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment Transparent back Water-resistant to 50 metres (5 bar / 165 ft)
Dial
White Applied hour-markers Day, month and moonphase apertures Pointer-type date display
Bracelet/strap
Black or brown leather with folding clasp Delivered with an additional strap

i_3159_1AVIATOR

Professional Automatic Edition

Man has always nurtured the dream of flight. The story of the Aviator is intimately tied to this dream, yet its mission is to do more than equip heroes of the skies. Its aim is to accompany them on the ground too. The pilot watches in the Professional line stand out for their functionality, precision and reliability. Enclosed in a simple case, the dial has the look of flight instruments inside the cockpit. Oversized pushers allow pilots to operate the chronograph while wearing thick gloves, while the different colours – red and black – ensure they can be instantly told apart in urgent situations. Everything about this watch has been designed to make the pilot’s job easier. Beginning with the Valjoux 7750 movement, unanimously acknowledged as one of the most reliable and most precise chronographs in the world, or the cuff-style bracelet that can be adjusted for wearing over gloves.
Movement
Mechanical automatic, ETA Valjoux 7750 calibre
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, chronograph
Case
316L stainless steel, 42 mm Red start/stop pusher Anti-reflective sapphire crystal Back engraved with 6 “Swifts” MiG-29 jet fighters in 3D Water-resistant to 100 metres (10 bar / 330 ft)
Dial
Black Luminescent numerals, hands and hour-markers Hour counter at 6 o’clock, minute counter at 12 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock Day and date windows at 3 o’clock
Bracelet/strap
Delivered with a black leather strap and a steel bracelet with folding clasp
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